God's Own Country

Last July and August the international news was briefly dominated by pictures of terrible flooding in Kerala, southern India.  Well over 300 people died and thousands more lost their homes, their livestock and their businesses.  A million people were temporarily evacuated.  One of the places which suffered most was the historic city of Kochi, including its international airport through which, during the short season, tourists come from all over the world.

Devastating Floods

Wayanad, in the north and Alappuzha, home of the famous backwater riceboats were similarly affected although huge amounts of work have taken place since to repair the damage.  Because of the flooding, many people cancelled their holidays in Kerala regardless of whether or not they were going to a flood damaged area. 

 I’ve just returned from Kerala having visited the southern beach hot spots of Varkala and Kovalam. They escaped the worst of the weather and the only signs of flooding are the half empty shops and cafes where the tourists should be.  This is such a shame!  The country needs foreign income more than ever now and there are so many beautiful places just ready and willing to embrace the visitor.

Varkala Beach

The beaches are gorgeous.  Even in the height of the season it’s possible to find a really quiet cove although I love the busy Kovalam seafront with its cafes, fruit vendors, affable dogs, fishing boats and whistle-blowing lifeguards. In Varkala you can eat your lunch and do your shopping looking down on the beach from the clifftop.  The restaurants are brilliant, serving the most delicious curries, prawns, dhals and fluffy Keralan parathas.  Fish, fresh from the sea is cubed, skewered and thrust deep into tandoori ovens. 

Fish Tikka Served on a Banana Leaf

They also have spicy snacks such as peanut masala and Tibetan dumplings or ‘Mo-mos’.  In many cases the kitchens are arranged so customers can view the action through windows and be reassured of the cleanliness.  After years of holidaying in Kerala I’ve never once been ill.  The last time I got poisoned it was in Marrakesh.

Fish Delivery in Kovalam

These seaside towns are also home to Ayuverdic  establishments where all sorts of massages  are available -  relaxation, therapy energy, head, feet or full body. Also, if you don’t think the tropical sun’s hot enough you can sit in a wooden steam bath with just your head poking out of the top while someone occasionally cranks up the sweat levels.  Ancient traditional Ayuverdic medicine is supposed to cure all ills with the right balance of mind body and spirit – just being in Kerala makes you feel so good you’re halfway there.

The Best Way to Travel

During the holiday season which is very short, from November to March, the weather is blazing.  Don’t bother taking that ‘cardie for the evening’, just make sure you’ve got a sunhat. And hang onto it when you're bowling along in a tuk tuk, taking in the endlessly interesting sights of day-to-day India.

Varkala Cliff Walkway

It just is a most brilliant place for a holiday and I’ve only mentioned a smidgeon of what there is to see.  The fare's about £560 return with Emirates from Manchester to Trivandrum.  Stay in a typical 3*** Indian hotel, like the Water’s Edge pictured here.  It’ll cost you £30-£40 a night for a lovely clean en suite room, probably a most breathtaking balcony sea view and a jolly tasty breakfast.  No wonder the Keralan Tourist Board uses the slogan ‘God’s Own Country’. 

There really is nowhere better.  

The Water's Edge Hotel, Kovalam